Embroidering with Metallic Threads

Do you have problems with thread breakage and fraying when embroidering with metallic thread?  It is small comfort, but you are not alone!  There are some things you can do to improve the results when working with metallics

• The most important thing you can do is to use the correct thread.  A high quality thread from a reputable dealer works much better than the cheaper threads you can purchase or old thread that has been in the cupboard for several years.  If you find a brand of metallic thread that works for you, then use that brand.   There are many good quality brands of metallic threads, but not all brands will work with every machine.
• Use the correct needle.   Use a metallic or “long eye” needle.  If you don’t have a metallic needle, use an embroidery needle.   If using an embroidery needle and the metallic thread is thicker than normal embroidery thread, try going up one size needle.
• Use the correct design.  Dense designs will not embroider well.  If possible, find designs that are specifically designed for metallic threads or use the metallic threads in certain sections of a design that are open and not too dense.
• Increase the thread path.  Metallic thread loops and kinks more than rayon or polyester thread.  When a kink hits a thread guide, it causes extra tension which is the culprit that causes the shredding and snapping of thread.   Use a thread stand specifically designed to provide a smooth path for metallic thread.
• Check the spool to make sure there are no rough edges that will snag the thread.   If you have problems with breakage, turn the thread upside down and have it unreel from the opposite side.
• Check the throat plate of the machine to ensure there are no nicks that might cause thread shredding.
• Slow the machine speed.  This can be the most important thing you can do when embroidering with metallic thread.  The faster a machine sews, the more tension there is on the thread.   A high tension will cause fragile threads to break.
• Check the machine tension.  You don’t want the tension too tight.  Loosening the thread slightly will dramatically reduce thread breakage and puckering.
• Choose the right fabric and stabilizer.  Tightly woven, stiff or abrasive fabrics and stabilizers are not metallic-friendly.
• Avoid adhesive stabilizer.  Adhesives can build up on the needle and thread, impeding smooth sewing.

Don’t give up on metallic thread.  The final results of a completed embroidery design using metallic thread in all or part of the design is well worth the effort.  With a few of the suggestions I have listed, you can successfully embroidery with metallic thread.